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The second word that entered my head after walking into the Gaucho Grill was Cow, but more of that in a minute. The first word has to have been Dark, as after coming in off the street it is really rather difficult to see where you are in a room with no windows and not much in the way of electric lighting. After a bit of stumbling about, we discovered a place to put our coats, and someone to take us upstairs to the restaurant proper.
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This is where the Cow bit comes in; presumably it is a planned reaction for a restaurant specialising in beef. Not only is there an abundance of conventional leather, but also on at least half the walls is leather with the fur still on it. Maybe this is what a room would look like which had several cows detonated inside of it, and the gore cleared away. Whatever – the effect is not exactly subtle and hopefully doesn’t do too much to put off today’s eaters who do not like to think where their food has come from. Me? I like it.
Starters and desert are really a distraction from the task at hand, but in the interests of science we try some enchiladas and a spicy prawn dish, both of which are reasonable but not earth shattering. As is often the case, my eyes are bigger than my appetite, and I delve into the custom menu of oversized steaks and receive a 600g Ribeye, whilst my colleague gets a taster platter comprising Filet, Sirloin, Ribeye and Rump. After a small hiccup with the cooking of my mammoth piece of meat, the main part of the meal begins. I have had a bit of a soft spot for Argentinean meat since spending two weeks on a carnivorous tour of the country a few years back, and possibly as a result of high expectations I found the meat here to be slightly disappointing. Personally I am more a fan of flavour than of texture, which is why I will rarely order a Filet, but in truth none of the steak we were served majored on either of these disciplines. They were all “good steaks” but in a reasonably expensive speciality restaurant, with the product coming from one of the best beef producing countries on earth, then I would expect exceptional. Sadly the meat fell well below the level of the Wagyu steak reviewed in the last edition (not surprising considering its price), but it also was comprehensively bested by a Chateaubriand which I had eaten in the previous week. Still, the wine (all Argentinean of course) was good and the atmosphere was fun too. Just don’t go expecting to eat like you are in the Pampas.
Mourad “Momo” Mazouz made his name in Paris with his critically acclaimed restaurant 404 named after the Peugeot he extensively travelled North Africa in. Although the car may hardly be a Lusso Luxury Feet contender it inspired him to redefine the perception of Moroccan food and bring North Africa’s Couscous and Tagines to the West End.
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Despite some of the domestic press describing Mourad’s venture as a gimmicky ten minute wonder this month will see the tenth anniversary of the opening of the iconic Momo restaurant Familial. The party will draw a starry crowd of its regulars that have supported it since its beginning. Celebrities alone are never enough to succeed, it is the sea of customers still pouring through the door that have ensued Momo’s success.
The fine bend of imported ornate furnishings, mouth watering food and the souk like atmosphere defines Momo as one of London’s hot spots. The appetisers all sounded wonderful and I opted for prawns served on celeriac gateaux with mango which was deliciously different. Having frequented a number of Moroccan restaurants, and Marrakech itself, I felt duty bound to try a Tagine - the traditional national dish - for my main course. It is a nomad’s sweet and savoury stew slowly cooked over a charcoal brazier in an earthenware pot which it is then served in. When the conical lid, which allows the condensing of the flavours, is removed you are presented with a barrage of aromatic steam. As I had heard the rich sauce with the famous couscous were delightful. It was a shame that I had been invited for a lunch as the cocktails are renowned for being fabulous, and you are advised to book early if you wish to dine here in the evening.
All this being said I think Momo is a treat for the senses to escape from the mayhem of central London outside.
In my experience there are only a few places in London that you can go and really feel like you have gotten away from the chaos that makes up most of my days here. One such place is private residence just off Park Lane, which has a garden so quiet it could easily be in the middle of Wiltshire.
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Unfortunately for me, it is not my house, and so if I want to have a similar experience it has to come from somewhere else. Just off Kensington High Street, if you know where to look, is the Kensington Roof Gardens. As part of the Virgin Limited Edition collection of properties - and the only one of those in Europe - expectations are high. The entrance is relatively nondescript, and once in the lift there are two options, 6 or 7. The sixth floor is a nightclub, and the seventh is home to Babylon, which is “open to those wanting a really memorable dining experience”. Modern European would probably be the best way to describe the food - we started with an interesting dish of seared Scottish scallops with cauliflower, and a delicious grilled quail salad, with a perfectly cooked quail egg garnish. My main course, rib of beef, was slightly less successful, although I am an awful meat snob... The other dish of Sea Bass was well cooked, and it is refreshing to see samphire on the menu. The wine list has enough variety, and each desert has a recommended sweet wine to accompany it. These were well selected, and proved to be a nice addition to the meal.
But the best part of the evening for me was after the food. A stroll through the one and a half acres of rooftop gardens - complete with flamingoes - was totally free from any hint of the London rush happening just yards, and six storeys, away. It is a great experience.
I was impressed from the moment I stepped into the restaurant; the décor was chic and the room creatively lit to give a pleasant modern ambience. After enjoying a cocktail at the bar we were led to our table to be treated with a stunning view of St Paul’s and a nighttime panorama of London. Despite the restaurant looking full to bursting point, always a good sign of course, the service was fast and attentive and we were soon enjoying our food. The menu was stylish and creative, with a distinct Mediterranean influence.
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My highlight was the char grilled marinated swordfish complimented with courgettes, peppers, anchovy and black olive butter, which was simply delicious. Assisted by the OXO Tower Sommelier team, we enjoyed a bottle from their first class list of around 800 worldwide wines. I was impressed from the outset, and soon I’ll be visiting again to eat in the Brasserie where an award winning line up of musicians adds a different dimension to the evening.
Exiting Knightsbridge tube on to the Brompton Road, the immensely grand Mandarin Oriental stood opposite us, a short walk across the road. Staff dressed in red jackets ushered taxis for departing guests and halted traffic as a series of exotic motors pulled in to drop off arrivals. Entering the hotel we were greeted by an equally well-presented front of house, before being whisked to the Mandarin Bar for a pre-dinner cocktail.
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The finest marble and carved palatial details could be seen wherever you looked. Entering the bar an enormous selection of bottles hide behind frosted backlit glass walls, which surrounded busy staff preparing spectacularly eye-catching drinks.
After enjoying a Mojihto served in an o-shaped green glass and an equally delicious Madame Butterfly Champagne cocktail, we moved through to be seated in the visually stunning Foliage Restaurant. Designed by the renowned Adam Tihany, the interior of the restaurant is dictated by clean lines and geometric shapes, which combine with soft lighting to create a contemporary but very comfortable atmosphere. Behind the blinds, sandwiched between giant glass panels siding the room, are 24,000 white silk leaves that seem to come to life with clever lighting. The concept of the design was to bring the park into the restaurant, and together with hand picked leaves placed under the bespoke glass table plates it certainly achieved it.
Having won the most prestigious of the restaurant awards, the Michelin Star, for the sixth year running we had high expectations for the food and service but it did not disappoint. Both of us chose the tasting menu, and were equally impressed by the incredible sophistication of each course even with the highest pre-conceptions. The tasting menu is designed so that diners can experience several tastes and textures over the duration of the meal and we enjoyed each with jaw dropping satisfaction. Highlights of the six-course meal were the seared scallops served with ceps, walnuts and pickled pears, and the sea bass with pumpkin, chorizo and ruby endive. Choosing the wine tasting to compliment, each glass suited the food perfectly and cleansed the palette when needed. This together with the very reasonable price of £75 and £56 for the wine tasting supplement, made the visit one to talk about.
Located in the heart of Mayfair, The Palm Beach Casino features one of the largest gaming rooms in London. Its redecorated luxurious interior, state-of-the-art gaming facilities, private gaming room, cocktail bar and new restaurant provide the perfect atmosphere for an entertaining evening.
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The luxurious Gold Room is an exclusive VIP gaming area. Gaming in the Gold Room provides you with total privacy including a private entrance on Berkeley Street. The Palm Beach casino provides a truly elegant gaming atmosphere for players of all levels and experience.
Head chef, David Laval has created a diverse and interesting menu for the Palm Beach restaurant. His style of cuisine is Fusion, a marriage of spices and flavours from around the world. By using combinations of fresh ingredients and superb presentation, The Palm Beach restaurant is sure to have something on the menu for everyone.
Japanese food has a lot going for it, especially in the current climate of free range chickens, organic vegetables, fruit smoothies and healthy eating. As a nation the Japanese have the longest life expectancy of any nation on earth, and a large portion of this must be down to their diet, which as any man on the street can tell you, is largely based around fish, rather than meat.
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As more and more people realise not only how good Japanese food is for you, but also how tasty it is, so more and more restaurants open up, and the choice gets wider. Of course, sushi has been fashionable for years, if not decades, but there is a lot more to the cuisine than just that.
“So” is a new restaurant which has opened recently on Soho’s Warwick Street. The theme is that of a Japanese tavern, and they serve a variety of different foods, ranging from sushi (they also have sushi making courses for the super-keen), through to yakitori (little stick of grilled meat) through to conventional fare like tempura and teriyaki.
We stated with a plate of crunchy and salty edamame beans – delicious as always – and then moved onto a big platter of tempura, fresh from the deep fryer. The prawns and vegetables were piping hot and wonderfully flavoured, especially with the dipping sauce, although the soft-shelled crab was not as good as I had hoped.
Next I had ordered a selection of sushi, and a couple of items off the a la carte menu. It was nice to find a place where they have Toro (tune belly) in stock, so this was a must, along with my favourite – yellow tail. The fish was obviously fresh, and there were no complaints at all, the fact that it all disappeared so quickly points to how good it was. Grilled Wagyu beef was a welcome sight on the menu as well, and it came to the table beautifully cooked and presented, and luckily its tenderness and taste lived up to the first impressions.
The drinks list has an impressive selection of Sakes, and the usual Japanese bottled beers are available – I think these are what best compliments the food’s light style. By the end of the meal everyone had tried each of the dishes (an essential component to a good meal in my opinion), so there was no room left over for pudding. I did see some other people eating what looked like a very good cheesecake though, so next time I will make sure to leave room for a taste. But with sushi this good, I may have a tough time.
Listen closely as you walk in the door of Le Pont de la Tour. Do you hear creaking? So did we. Initially, we thought it was the sound of a place past its sell by date. What we subsequently discovered was a place making some very positive steps to get up off its laurels.
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Like many people, my experience of Pont had been lunch back in my City days. For me, one of those been-there-seen-it-done-it recession bores, those days ended in the mid '90s. Which, coincidentally, appears to be about the last time Pont saw a makeover; well, save for the Crustacea Bar tucked into the counter of the bar. In some respects – the classic nature of the menu, the skill in the kitchen, the excellent services, the depth of the wine list – that’s a very good thing. In other respects - the layout, the decoration – it’s quite the opposite.
It does perhaps explain the lack of custom in the bar on an admittedly wet August evening although, as my companion pointed out, with a view this good, there’s really no excuse. As the name suggests, the restaurant and bar overlook Tower Bridge. It’s one of the best drinking views in the capital so where were the punters? It can’t be the credit crunch because we’d had to fight through the crowds at other riverside drinking holes to get there. The problem would appear to be the room itself which is characterless and badly in need of a shake-up.
However, there is light at the end of this particular tunnel. Pont is now part of D&D, who’ve recently made over Launceston Place to such excellent effect and have apparently shifted some key staff from Skylon to help revive Pont’s fortunes. And it certainly helps to have Lee Bennett in the kitchen. Bennett’s CV is impressive – Savoy Grill, Gordon Ramsay, Pierre Ganaire and Alain Ducasse – ditto his food. The oysters were impeccable, while his French influences shone through in first rate starters of steak tartare and an excellent, and robust, smoked eel, poached egg, pancetta and beetroot.
Main courses were of similar quality if lacking in oomph. Angus fillet, oyster mushrooms, blue cheese sauce was well sourced and well cooked, and Veal Rossini was everything Veal Rossini should be. All textbook stuff – indeed, all classic French textbook stuff –but a little, well, unexciting. Yes, it’s no doubt very acceptable to the few bankers still on expense account lunches but, by modern standards, there’s something lacking. However, there’s enough indication here to suggest that Pont’s ambitions lie several steps beyond classic and, even better, enough indication that the revival is already under way.
Le Pont de la Tour The Butlers Wharf Building 36D Shad Thames London SE1 2YE
Lincontro is a small restaurant with an understated entrance and about a dozen tables.I strolled in and spotted the owners in the back corner enjoying their own lunch, as I settled down to enjoy mine I had a quick glance around the restaurant and spotted a number of fantastic photographs of various movie stars and iconic figures.
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The place was very quiet, with only a few other customers in the restaurant. “Everyone’s in St. Tropez”, my host for the lunch explains.
The menus arrive and I have a quick glance over the options spread across two separate menus. After a brief scan I have already spotted four different options that I might like to try. “You can chose anything from either menu, mix and match”, the waiter explained... as if I wasn’t struggling to choose already.
It must have taken 20 minutes of discussing the menu, with the conversation leading off on various tangents. Finally though, I went for the Salmon and no more than 5 minutes later a fantastically cooked piece of gorgeous Salmon is in front of me - after devouring that I simply had to have the peach desert... but the treat didn’t end there. After my meal I was allowed a sneak peek at the private restaurant downstairs. A room about a third of the size with one long table, a definite for next time I want to play ‘The Sopranos’!
The Mango Tree Restaurant had been recommended to me as one of London’s best Thai eateries, and as a result I have been trying to find time to visit for quite some time. At full capacity on a Wednesday night it certainly looked like a popular destination.
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Entering the restaurant we were immediately impressed by the décor, which was modern and stylish, yet still maintaining a traditional Thai feeling. Before being taken to our table we were guided to the bar where we enjoyed a cocktail, selecting from a wide choice of drinks, with the expected Asian influence. After enjoying a Thai Sunrise and a Green Dragon, which were both delicious, our appetites were rising and we were led into the main restaurant.
As we entered, the large size of the room and number of tables was certainly noticeable, with bustling teams of table staff all across the floor. With such large numbers of customers and courses per person I was of course interested to see how they coped and with the volume. Both our own service and what we saw of other tables was impeccable.
As with many leading restaurants a tasting menu is offered, as well as different ‘banquet’ options and a full a la carte menu. We both opted for the tasting menu, familiar with the usual Pad Thai Goong that was included, but keen to try some more unusual dishes from the long list offered, which we would have been lost in choosing from the other menus. The presentation of each course was stunning and the portions were the right size to satisfy without leaving us feeling too full. Starting with a salad, then a soup, then a noodle dish, then a curry before moving on to a desert gave excellent variety too.
Unusually for a Thai meal, we tried, and particularly enjoyed, the Som Tum & Meung Cum green papaya salad which was served with cherry tomato, snake beans, Betel nut leaves, peanut, shrimp, lime, ginger, chilli, and toasted coconut with a spicy lime sauce. Fans of Tom Yum soup we also really enjoyed the second course, Tom Yum Jay & Satay Talay Luam Mid, which as the name suggests came with satay sticks of fish, squid, scallop and prawn.
Louis Vuitton buys Yacht Manufacturer
The Louis Vuitton Group, LVMH, has purchased Dutch yacht manufacturer Royal van Lent. The yacht company make ultra high end yachts, with an average selling price of 30 million euros. The sellers are Dutch investment firm Egeria and the acquisition price is worth approximiately 11 times net profit.
Asics Inner Muscle Revolutionises Sport Clothing
High end sports clothing has recently gone down the route of tight elastic tops and shorts that initially appear about 4 sizes too small for the athlete. The theory is that the tops provide more overall support to muscles, which improves performance. Asics, a leading trainer company, has taken this technology one step further. Lusso took a look.
Topper chosen for Champion of Champions event
Topper Sailboats offer a range of 12 different boats for all abilities of sailor. They are highly regarded as having excellent construction quality and design. They have been chosen to be the craft of choice for the Endeavour Trophy at least up until 2010 and probably further into the future. Lusso have taken a closer look at this company to see how they do it.
Did Russian billionaire buy 496 million euro property?
Recently, it was reported that Villa Leopolda was sold to a Russian billionaire for just under 500 million euros. It soon revealed that Russian billionaire Mikhail Prokhorov was behind the sale. As is the habit with Russian oligarchs, Prokhorov made his billions in precious metals. In 2007 he launched a $17 billion private investment fund, so he was definitely wealthy enough to purchase the property.
Issue 15, Available December 2008.
Travel Special
The ultimate in peace and quite. Lusso Magazine investigates the best island resorts in the world - it's a tough job, but somebody's got to do it.
Ultimate Toys
Super yacht tenders, powerboats, motorbikes and super cars, we serve up the usual dose of high octane machinery.
And the regulars...
Brian Ebbesen, Arash Farboud, Nick English and others all share their views
The Value for Luxury Market
“Doug,Very interested in your article on EOS and this is something I am trying to re-create ...” By Nigel Worrall 27 September 2008
