Lusso hops aboard the Orient Express to sample the spectaculor Scottish splendor of The Royal Scotsman
There’s a wonderful sense of freedom in leaving behind the concrete city skyscrapers and surrounding yourself with soaring mountains and calm lochs - something so definitive to the Highlands of Scotland as its history of warring clans.
Rumor has it that there’s no better (or more glamorous!) way to experience the spectacularly diverse scenery of the Highlands than onboard The Royal Scotsman; we put this to the test.
In true Scottish splendor, we are piped aboard at Edinburgh’s Waverley Station and start heading west on a rail journey often described as one of the world’s most scenic. The warm welcome continues in the mahogany-paneled Observation Car where champagne is served and we marvel at the elegance of the Edwardian interior. I can already envision the many hours that will be spent here making acquaintances and admiring the views from the veranda in the exhilarating thrill of fresh air.
The city landscapes gradually fade away while we are personally introduced to the crew and given a rundown of the facilities onboard that include a small library. We are shown to our cabins and although we expect it to be intimate, it’s surprisingly spacious with individually controlled heating, a ceiling fan and a full-length mirrored wardrobe. In fact, standing in the middle of the room, I found myself virtually surrounded in Highland beauty as the window reflects perfectly in the dressing table mirror! The attention to detail and personal service is striking as we find a handwritten card welcoming us on board, a pair of binoculars in the subtly scented drawers and a service call button that allows contact with the crew at any time of the day or night.
After unpacking we leisurely return to the Observation car to find a delightful display of freshly prepared sweet and savory snacks (including the best mini-scones in the world). Coffee and tea is served with remarkable ease while the steady rhythm of the rails run below and we marvel at the beautiful Ben Arthur, Loch Lomond and Rannoch Moor that fill the windows.
Late afternoon we return to our cabins to freshen up for dinner, which is a grand affair. The room gradually fills with glamour and excitement as guests mingle around canapés and the men steal the show in their colourful kilts and black tie, relaxing with wee dram in hand. A truly romantic occasion that even those without Scottish heritage can enjoy, by pre-arranging the hire of a traditional outfit to be delivered directly to the train.
Guests continue mingling through to the Raven and Victory dining rooms that allow for between 2 and 6 guests to be seated per table. Freshly baked bread rolls are served in the ambience of flickering candlelight, laughter and raised glasses to an appreciation of the finer things in life (it’s not hard to imagine Sir Winston Churchill dining in the same carriage during its former glory days). A three-course gastronomic delight is served, each course presented with an accompanying wine, while outside the earlier views of lochs and mountains have now been replaced by wilder landscapes, set aglow in the firelight of the setting sun. It’s hard to imagine a more stunning backdrop for dinner.
The entertainment continues after dessert in the Observation car where cheese platters and an infinite selection of drinks are served. Here we have the privilege of meeting local experts whose passion for Scottish history is evident in their vividly dramatic storytelling, display of authentic weaponry and performance of traditional Gaelic music. Absolutely mesmerising!
The next morning, a few of the more energetic souls go for an early morning stroll in the local town. Others (present company included) prefer a more leisurely start to the day, finding the freshly baked pain-au-chocolat and a cup of brewed coffee irresistible. The breakfast menu is extensive and offers the usual selection of fresh fruit and cereals as well as a grill and chef’s special. In addition a selection of daily papers are available for those who still remember the real world.
With a slight jerk the train gradually picks up speed and we are swept away once again, this time towards Arisaig and past the breath-taking beauty of Loch Eil. We gaze upon mountains that disappear in woven shades of blue and grey, edge on the waterline of mirroring lochs, glide past waterfalls and streams trickling over boulder-strewn riverbeds and are stunned by the beauty of Glenfinnan and the famous ‘Harry Potter’ bridge. The splendor of it all leaves you feeling incredibly privileged and humble, standing in awe of the pure beauty you’d forgotten existed.
At Arisaig, the most western station of Scotland, we board a coach to the beautiful Morar Sands where we stop to dip our feet in the freezing water and walk along the lovely white stretches of sand. Hot and cold beverages are served from a picnic hamper and on our way back we see Britain’s shortest river and glimpse the lovely Triagh Golf Course. Later that afternoon, we join a boat cruise on Loch Linnhe and enjoy some of the local produce (steaming mussels and salmon bites); stop to admire Neptune’s staircase: A series of eight locks that connect Loch Ness to Loch Linnhe and has provided a safer inland route through Scotland since 1847; and briefly visit the Commando Memorial, built in memory of the Commandos training in Fort William during WWII. Heading back to the train, we wonder what cocktails will await us this time as we’ve quickly become accustomed to the lavishness of being welcomed back after each excursion with glasses of Pimm’s, a Bloody Mary, or sparkling champagne. What a life! Someone’s got to do it, right?
On our last day, we visit the spectacular Mount Stuart on the Isle of Bute. Best described as an architectural fantasy, its stunning and mysterious interiors are simply extraordinary! The amount of detail and thought incorporated in the design is staggering and testifies to one man’s marvelous imagination, which is definitely worth a return visit another time.
Too soon our journey has to come to an end and we greet the crew and friends we’ve made onboard with glistening eyes, silently wishing that we could turn back the clock and start all over again. It was Marcel Proust who said: “The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes.” The Royal Scotsman has done both, with an incomparable level of personal luxury service.
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