Recovering from my experience on XSMG’s monstrous XSR48 powerboat, I needed to get over my newfound fear of boating. What should fall through the letterbox the following week but an invitation for a few days on a luxury 80ft Bermudan yacht; that should do the trick.

To put you in the picture; only 40cm of the XSR48 sits in the water at its cruising speed of 60mph, two thunderous engines generate a massive 2000bhp and safety harnesses hold you in at its teeth grinding top speed of 109mph. My cure for this was to be a vessel likened to the Orient Express, fashioned by timeless luxury, and the perfect way to see one of the UK’s most outstanding areas of natural beauty. The Pembrokeshire Coast National Park was to be the venue and Halcyon the boat.

The name ‘Halcyon’ is Greek for Kingfisher and the ancients thought the Kingfisher only visited its nest, far out to sea, on the balmiest of days. Casting off on just such a day I was treated to views of the isle of Grassholm, where Puffins skim its waters and Gannets dive-bomb for catch. The spectacular coastline was varied in landscape with offshore islands, rugged cliffs, sandy beaches, wooded estuaries and wild inland hills. As on so many trips away, it took me little time to revisit the question as to why I live in London.

I began my journey down to Pembrokeshire from Paddington. Settling down with my laptop to catch up on some writing I soon found myself at Swansea. The connecting train to Milford Haven departed on time but I couldn’t take my work out again, the beautiful Welsh countryside rushed upon us. It’s a part of the UK I hadn’t seen since childhood steam train trips: the rolling, low lying farmsteads caught by a late April afternoon sun was breathtaking. My G4’s LCD display simply couldn’t compete with the land’s bucolic attractions and I, quite naturally, forgot all about my keyboard.

I was immediately taken too by Canaston Oaks, my resting place for the night. Warm Welsh hospitality was met with chic interior design and five star comforts, yet still maintaining a homely farmhouse feel. The owners Eleanor & David were simply a pleasure to meet. Visit and you’ll quickly realise what you’d forgotten about real hospitality. Instantly feeling relaxed and at ease with my surroundings I settled down for the evening, in eager anticipation of some great sailing the next day.

After breakfasting on grilled kippers, various delicious accompaniments and a cup of fresh Arabica, I was sorry to say hurried goodbyes to Eleanor and David. My driver arrived to pick me up and whisked me straight away to the Halcyon. As I carefully perused the brochure of its skippered sailing holidays, corporate yacht charter and entertaining, it became clear to me that she was no ordinary vessel; and I was sure this was going to be no ordinary experience.

Arriving at the marina she instantly stood out from the sea of white fibreglass boats, which flanked every arm of the wooden walkways. I prefer boats made of wood. The Halcyon is constructed from fine teak planks on English oak frames, carved by age old carpentry. When I stepped on board it was like stepping back in time. Towering masts, unfurled sails, and traditional ‘block and tackle’ promised classic sailing.

I immediately introduced myself to the very amiable skipper Robert Hickman as well as his mate and amateur naturalist, Annette Corder. Handshakes led to a quick conversation about him, Annette, and the Halcyon refurbishment project, with which they had both been wholeheartedly involved in from its outset. Robert briefed me about the boat’s eleven-month refurbishment, from design to development and final execution.

Beginning in February 2006, the extensive refit took place at the specialist shipyard of T. Nielsen & Company Limited based in Gloucester docks. During her dry-docking a new Perkins 130 HP diesel was fitted together with a new generator and all new electrical, navigation, communication, entertainment and plumbing systems installed. The hull was re-coppered, repainted and new stanchion posts and shroud plates fitted. The masts and spars were stripped down, re-varnished and all the metal fittings re-galvanised and repainted. The original hydraulic windlass was also re-galvanised and restored. The standing rigging was replaced in new galvanised wire and all the running rigging and wooden blocks were replaced. The sails were refurbished as needed and a suit of cruising sails selected. The aim throughout was to use only the very best quality materials, and the craftsmanship exhibited by the multinational team of shipwrights at Nielsen’s clearly was second to none.

Returned to their previous glory, Halcyon’s ornate features, polished brass and fine handcrafted walkways were captivating. The painstaking attention to detail with which she was built could be seen wherever you looked and every feature a showcase of her nautical authenticity. Nestled on the deck was also an onboard clinker sailing dinghy, used for shallow water explorations, which had also been returned to prime condition.

Setting off to the open sea full of excitement I again thought back to childhood memories, this time to tales of Captain James Cook and his first voyage of 1768. Commissioned in 1929 by the Lancashire industrialist Sir Samuel Turner, Halcyon exhibits all the great virtues of bygone sailing. On board you can be as hands on or off as you like and although the incredible scenery would have been enough to entertain I was keen to get fully involved. Raising all three sails by pull and lock was hard work, but as they filled, gratification was instantly gained as she cut through the waves and surged onwards. With the sound of water breaking against the boat, the sails taught full of wind, the sky blue and the sun warm, and a crew full of good cheer, I was as content as I had once dreamed of being on a Cook adventure.

Taking the helm on a broad reach, heading towards Grassholm, the power of her sails put me in absolute awe as 70 tonnes of boat glided effortlessly forward. Winching in the mainsail, the rugged shoreline passed by and local wildlife soon joined us both in sea and above. Virtually the entire Pembrokeshire coastline is contained within the National Park, established in 1952. Famed for its beaches and recognised as one of the most beautiful destinations in the UK, its reputation is well deserved.

As we approached Grassholm, birds were suddenly all around us, showering us in shrills. Above the island a spiralling whirlwind of Gannets rose upward from the main peak, which had been turned completely white by guano. The cries from the colony could be heard from some distance, which grew to a loud ambient hum as we drew closer. Either side of the boat the Gannets now fell like javelins from the sky, piercing the surface at incredible velocity. Moments later, nearly all rose triumphantly to the bubbling surface with beaks full of fish. It was easy to see how the myth of them going blind from such plunge-diving could be believed. After circling the island we headed back out to sea to chase white crests.

After an exhilarating sail we headed back to land and moored up in a sheltered cove. As the evening sun glistened across the water we all enjoyed a glass of Veuve Clicquot. Busy below, Andre was preparing a magnificent feast. Catering to guests’ differing tastes he uses fresh local produce with inventive cooking. Pan-fried squid with spinach leaves, pine nuts and sweet potato drizzled in garlic dressing to start was a superb fusion of tastes. To follow, a tender salmon fillet on a bed of asparagus, accompanied by diced potatoes and spring onions, was equally delicious. Joined by Rob and Annette, the dinner was a wonderful end to the day. Stories of past adventures of the boat and crew were shared as we laughed the evening away.