Meditating upon the madness that is flying today, it’s hard to recall the beautiful things in life when withstanding the relatively restricted comforts of a 12-hour flight. But all this dissipates into thin air once the airbus begins its decent down towards the Indian Ocean, and glancing wistfully into the aeroplane’s familiarly meagre oval window, one proceeds to stare across into the heavens mid-flight or to smile smugly in childish awe at the Lilliputian-sized toy towns that seem to reside so peacefully beneath the wings.
However, on this particular occasion no urban route-way or Burgess concentric town-planning model was in evidence below, for here we were in the middle of the cobalt-hued ocean with streaks of bright turquoise shooting out, reflecting the sunny haze across the smooth big blue...I call this the quintessence of tropical island living - coral reefs and inlets, sheltering rocky island outcrops and coral atolls pristinely peppered across the visible horizon.
What you have here is the perfect luxury island hideaway, and a chance to bask in complete isolation. To seek such a haven of tranquillity, wrapped in adventure and the beauty of nature was my quest. A tall order perhaps, but what this destination offers comes at a handsome price - the legacy of a land that has to import almost all of its services and basic requirements - for extreme beauty in the Seychelles tallies neatly with the high-end luxury hotel hosts who cater for your every need and whim.
Just four degrees south of the equator, all 115 islands in the Seychelles archipelago (over 80 are still uninhabited) are located north of Madagascar and over 1000 miles off the African coast of Kenya. The four main “inner” islands are skilfully carved out of granite rock, remnants of a huge underwater plateau, and are thus more mountainous and topographically interesting than the desert-island simplicity found on the characteristically flatter “outer” coralline islands, scattered like petals across the Indian Ocean.
I took a six-day tour of the granitic pearls, starting with my transatlantic flight arrival on the main island of Mahe, the biggest (housing a population of 60,000 people) and most lofty island of them all (with a highest point of 930m). Mahe’s diverse topography contains cinnamon and spice plantations, waterfalls and cascades, steep hairpin bends, botanical gardens, dense tropical forests in the highland reaches and no less than 70 beaches each with its own distinctive character. It is also home to the sleepy yet colourful capital, Victoria, a delightful collision of colonial and African cultures, set amidst the lush greenery, which spreads in ivy-like fashion across every conceivable space. Landing on Mahe, with the airport built on reclaimed land, affords coastline views that surely qualify as one of the most stylish and picturesque ways to land in the world. The capital famously boasts just one pair of traffic lights, which seems more of a rendezvous point and icon of ardent pride for the local inhabitants rather than a facility to control traffic! But the historical landmark du jour is the silvery clock tower monument, faintly reminiscent of Big Ben, erected as a memorial to Queen Victoria in 1903, which itself sits comfortably in the middle of a crossroads, monitoring traffic and presenting an immediate reminder of the days when the Seychelles was a crown colony.
“The exquisitely private colonial-style wooden villas, replete with plunge pool, terrace and veranda, are dotted along the beach”
We commenced our island Odyssey by claiming the guest-friendship of the splendid eco-resort, Banyan Tree Seychelles, for almost half our stay. Located in the southern tip of the island, the first five-star eco-resort pioneer on the islands opened in February 2001. This Eastern hotel group pride themselves on their purist spa principles and with that, a green outlook and valiant attempt to blend in seamlessly with the natural surroundings. The Banyan Tree Seychelles’ tireless work to save the beach habitat of the Hawksbill Turtle is well documented in their Green Imperative Fund, with so far extremely rewarding results. This is augmented by the invitation to all guests to partner the cause with a $1 per night contribution, matched by the hotel, opt-out scheme. Naturally, the hotel was a pleasing oasis of calm offering a hint of Thai-Balinese flavour to welcome us upon arrival. As we checked in, glowing in the immediate acknowledgement of the tropical heat haze and mildly exacerbated from the exigencies of travel, we were each handed a chilled glass of lemongrass-iced tea, a most inviting greeting etiquette which we continued to receive from all our Seychellois hosts throughout the trip.
The exquisitely private colonial-style wooden villas guests are assigned, replete with plunge pool, terrace and veranda, are dotted along the beach and hillside hidden amidst dense tropical greenery, with the centre-piece communal infinity pools, conjoined together, nestled high up the beachside cliff that ensure fantastic views of Anse Intendance, the crescent-shaped sandy bay which provides one of the most dramatic beach settings on Mahe. After a short golf buggy ride hugging the jagged coastline and up the hill, I encountered my sheltered cliff-side villa (or one could choose a beachfront residence) overlooking the craggy rocks set within jungle foliage and swaying palms kept rhythmically in control by a ferociously wave-worthy sea. The accompanying wind drives the waters, and ultimately the waves, whilst palm trees quiver, and so creates superb tropical-island isolation sound-effects. But before I could savour the romance of the moment, it was off in true intrepid-island style to enjoy our first nautical expedition. We were presented with a fabulous, Poseidon-friendly yacht with all the mod cons - bedroom facilities and slick décor, all of which secured a James Bond-sanctioned gloss to seafaring proceedings!
Island-hopping in style, which is definitely one of the most rewarding pastimes to undertake on the Seychelles, we left the main jetty bound for Sainte Anne Marine Park, one of the first marine national parks to be created in the Indian Ocean back in 1973. The park boundaries extend across a number of small satellite islands formed along Mahe’s watery hinterlands, protecting over 150 different species of fish-life. Our amiable guide informed us that nearby Long Island housed the country’s prison until it was sold for tourism development and will soon morph into a chi-chi new hotel resort; a similar fate welcomes Round Island, tipped to open up as a resort imminently. Finally, the tiny island of Moyenne emerged into view. Our guide smiled widely: “And someone offered $26m for that one,” she said, “but the owner is not selling it.” We transferred to a dinghy boat to land on the island, now a wild refuge for indigenous animal and plant life fully recreated to wild heights by a committed yet eccentric Yorkshire man who has owned the island since the 60’s. He proudly conferred his conservation achievements to his captive audience: more than 100 giant tortoises now roam (slowly!) freely, often found stacked up like dinner plates underneath the most majestic billowing tree, together with a 2000-strong bird population. Of all the people we met on the islands, whether local or originally expatiate, one thing binds them passionately together: a love for the beauty and continued conservation of the Seychelles ‘ natural largesse.
The opportunity arose to leave the comforts of our yacht for a closer encounter with the waters that protectively surround the islands, and of course I jumped (or rather, dived!) at the chance. Snorkelling is a pleasure that is rarely enjoyed to such lengths outside the equatorial region. The pristine clarity of the waters, a wide range of kaleidoscope-coloured reef fish within stroking distance and the general pleasantness of the waters’ warmth and accessibility all make swimming in the Indian Ocean one of my favourite outdoor pursuits, although it was with some surprise that I encountered a current significantly stronger than I would have expected. Although the Seychelles are generally perceived to be good to visit all year round, with temperatures fluctuating between 24-31C (the wettest month is January and the driest period is during peak season July-August). This, together with a stubborn breeze originating from the trade winds (north-westerly between October and April bringing in warm, wet weather and south-easterly from May-September with its cooler, drier personality), keeps the Seychelles cooler than other tropical rivals, made my mermaid moment that much more of an exercise in adventure!
The Seychelles is full of surprises, even if we cast our mind back to the pre-Colonial days of the French and English periods, when the islands were virtually uninhabited. Before Western European civilisation joined the islands into recognisable political unity and stability, the dramatic beauty and mystique of the Seychelles held sway to a very different caste of traveller, one whose brand of adventure possessed far darker motives. To find out more, we spent our second day along the un-manicured coastline of the Bel Ombre region, north Mahe, to join John ‘Cruise’ Wilkins, an archaeologist-cum-historian with a particular penchant for the islands’ infamous pirate and witchcraft history and his enthusiasm was infectious. He led us around his active excavation site on the rugged coast, and we followed his every movement and gesticulation pointing out various manmade clues, carvings and topographical points of interest alluding to a more bloodthirsty and dangerous past, as well as many a mythical anecdote! But sadly our treasure hunt did not reward us with the Midas touch!
A return to the sanctuary of the Banyan Tree thereafter could not have been more welcome, especially considering that a spa appointment seeks to create the calmness of mind and body which the Banyan Tree philosophy wishes to extend to all its guests. The easiest way to embrace this is to look for guidance from the carefully and intensively trained therapist. I chose to indulge in the two-hour Renewal package, which provides a complete body conditioning therapy and a sense of rejuvenation for face and body. For radiant results, I chose the Thai honey facial for my face and Deep Sea Detox for the body, consisting of a fresh seaweed bodywrap. But before the main treatments commenced, it was time to relax and find peace within my self and my surroundings.
The Banyan Tree spa complex of eight spa pavilions offering side-by-side treatment beds (two of which feature a jet pool and steam room) are agreeably arranged in perfect symmetry around the ornate herb and floral garden, whose indigenous harvest provides the therapists with the aromatic herb and spice ingredients used throughout the spa programme.
I was welcomed in this relaxing and ordered oasis with a hyacinth iced tea broth, which immediately sought to cool and soothe my throat and tastebuds. In a calm and gentle voice, the pleasant Thai therapist then led me into a pavilion by the hillside. There was no need for clinical sound effects here. The waves lapping against the shore below provided the perfect natural pulse of nature to calm the senses. I sat by the window overlooking the coastal view outside as my therapist delivered a soothing ritual footbath. Once this was complete, I was robed and guided to the treatment bed for my first treatment - my face was cleansed, oiled and wiped with a hot towel, which proved a pleasing heat counterpoint to the ice-cool cucumbers which were then pressed gently upon the contours of my face, piece by piece, before my eyes received the final covering. Darkness followed...the cucumber pieces were removed and warm honey was spread effortlessly against the skin, oozing over every pore and laden with goodness. Following sufficient skin-infiltration time, whereupon I closed my eyes and allowed the sound of the waves to hypnotise my being, directing my mind to the heavens, whilst awaiting the delicate removal of the golden ambrosial coating. This is serene isolation of the celestial kind!
Unlike the pleasing aromatic strains of cucumber, essential oils and honey, the deep sea detox wrap unquestionably removed my dreamlike existence and placed me firmly back to reality as I inhaled hints of fresh and rather pungent seaweed systematically placed upon my limbs. Again, a period of time passed before the sea’s green goodness was removed from my body, and after a luxurious outdoor shower with the energetic sea as my nearby companion, the treatment was complete. However, in order to really banish all memories of the long-haul flight and the cares of life in London, I chose a 90-minute Balinese Massage, which I believe succeeds in driving home the serenity of the Seychelles. My therapist delivered an intense, medium-to-strong deep tissue massage using a blend of essential healing oils to stimulate blood circulation, improve energy movement and relieve all tension from the body. This was successfully achieved through firm strokes via her thumb and palm pressure technique. Following such luxurious pampering only sleep beats the pace. So, after returning to my luxuriously appointed villa and ordering a fresh crisp salad and the latest tropical fruit smoothie infusion on rotation (I worked my way through many a tropical mix!) for a light supper, which arrived swiftly and arranged with signature Banyan Tree style and service, that was exactly what I did!
Our final day in Mahe took us to the lush green mountains. Leaving the coast behind, we scaled the highland interior to reach the Jardin du Roi, a unique piece of history presenting the farming techniques and processes of the cultivation of spices - cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves and peppercorns - established over 200 years ago. Belonging to French settlers who have lived in the Seychelles for over five generations, the present garden has been styled into a plantation growing the aforementioned crops, whilst the original wooden farmhouse has been turned into a pleasant little museum piece and is still owned by the same family, who now run the most famous restaurant on the island, which I duly crown the capital of Creole cooking, with a keen emphasis on colourful spices and fish-focused dishes.
A mere 15 minutes’ flight-time (serviced by Air Seychelles with 20 scheduled flights per day) separates Mahe from the second largest island of the Seychelles, Praslin, where we spent the latter half of the trip. Famed for its rare but nevertheless abundant flora and fauna, Praslin is not as mountainous as Mahe - the highest point being 330m - but where it lacks in loftiness it makes up for in abundant lushness. Housing a population of just 6,500 people, the island’s palm prehistoric heritage has remained pretty much intact within its spectacular forested interior, and thus sports a much more laid-back and peaceful demeanour than Mahe with its natural attractions very much at the forefront of the discerning travellers’ mind. So, what has the average adventurer come to find? The Seychelles boasts no less than two impressive Unesco World Heritage sites - Aldabra, the world’s largest raised coral atoll protecting 150,000 or so giant Aldabra tortoises within its island boundaries, and Vallee de Mai on Praslin, where I now find myself, famous for the Coco-de-Mer coconut seed and home to one of the world’s rarest birds, the publicity-shy black parrot.
Leaving the coastal road very much behind to discover the aforementioned, mysterious hidden valley in the island’s granite uplands: is this the place visitors past and present call the Garden of Eden and the real Jurassic Park by turns? Whatever name guests christen the Vallee de Mai, this magical natural wonder elicits superlatives of the highest (or make that tallest!) order. The majestic fan palms, bearing the world’s largest leaves, create the biggest, and surely the heaviest seed in the world, the coco de mer nut, weighing in at around 20kg, and pleasingly reminiscent of the female derriere! It therefore comes as no surprise to discover that the first visitors to these islands were fascinated by them, immediately transporting the giant botanical jewels into island lore with their potent fertile symbolism. The lofty palms that house the nuts rise to a lofty 100ft high and thousands of these elegant and sturdy trees of all ages and sizes can be found in the reserve. What makes this natural encounter such a fascinating biological curiosity is that these tropical forest giants only grow on Praslin and her little island sibling, Curieuse. Aside from the coco-de-mer palm, bois rouge, ferns, lataniers, coco marron, screwpines and orchids jostle for space, whilst you can find fruit bats, blue pigeons, bulbuls, lizards, geckos and chameleons seeking cover within the forest. The park allows visitors to observe the island’s riches on foot, but Praslin is perfect for rambling, given its size - an hour’s walk widthways at most...
“The Lemuria resort has not two but three beaches within its resort confines”
Just as my neck began to strain under the constant glances up to stare in wonderment at the heavens-bound forest of mounting magnificence, we returned to our Praslin hotel, the family-friendly resort, Constance Lemuria Resort who aim to exceed all manner of expectations from their guests: whether you want the children to be entertained, or to allow for due entertainment for oneself, there’s a vast array of activities and facilities to cater to even the most choosey of guests. From a magnificent 18-hole championship golf course with some of the finest coastal views in the world, not to mention the largest golf course on the islands, first rate tennis court facilities and a relatively new Guerlain spa to accommodate all therapeutic and holistic corporeal needs, the Lemuria resort imposes a luxurious service upon all these variables and more. The hillside-backed setting itself is more than an excuse to stay, with palm groves, beaches and lagoons aplenty, even if the pale linen and dark wood décor is not quite up to the exquisite slick indigenous designs and layout of the Banyan Tree.
The majority of the accommodation encompasses junior suites stacked on two-level thatched buildings neatly lining the fringes of two sweeping bays, with one of the prime restaurants and circular bar dominating one of the beach promontories. An early morning surprise breakfast on the beach beside our suites was one such way to discover just how peaceful a place it is, but once again the Seychelles springs another surprise to test one’s own barometer of paradise, and again the islands come trumps: the Lemuria resort has not two but three beaches within its resort confines, and Anse Georgette is another famous beach setting that often gets mentioned in best beach guides around the world. Accessible only by golf buggy or on foot from the resort, the gentle waves massage a pristine sandy beach flanked by huge granite rocks, which serve as natural boundaries and shelter for the few holidaymakers fortunate enough to be able to find it!
The hotel provided us with a special picnic on Anse Georgette, all neatly and professionally presented, like a work of art to be viewed within the protective cling film-covered plates placed on low rattan tables, underneath a capaciously-branched tree to shield ourselves and the food from the searing heat of the day. To close the chapter on a perfect day, a trip to the Guerlain Spa to see what the Constance Lemuria Resort had to offer a now spa-trained guest was just the ticket to a perfect evening. I selected yet another bodywrap conditioning treatment and a more novel massage and my Indonesian therapist was just as deft in her soothing technique in delivering the goods with finesse and thoughtfulness, although the acute attention to detail (think footbath, simple spa ritual touches and perhaps more bijou spa facilities) that is found in the Banyan Tree Spa is hard to beat. The Lemuria’s Guerlain Spa also utilizes similar organic natural principles, boasting exotic concoctions of plant extracts, herbs, milk, honey, almond and papaya in their treatments, and many of these ingredients and approaches are endemic to the region.
This was my first hot stone massage, and being a massage regular, I was nevertheless both hesitant and intrigued by the possible procedure that was about to play a heated symphony on my bodily senses. This was the massage ritual at its most profound and exotic. My therapist gamely combined a hands-on massage with detoxifying citrus oils and the heated basalt stones. The penetrating heat radiated deep into my muscles, and was delivered with swiftness and precision. In fact, it was hard to determine that she was indeed applying the pressure, energy and movement with a pair of steaming hot stones in her palms; such is the fluidity of the treatment. The heated basalt stones are then placed upon strategic points of the body. It is believed that the stones conspire to create physical harmony and balance, as well as increasing the metabolism. I can certainly vouch for feeling energized and calm.
The latter feeling was further induced by my second treatment - a relaxing wrap consisting entirely of fresh papaya fruit, whose moist, cool terracotta-orange hues were liberally arranged in fleshy chunks across my body. Once I was covered in orange from head to toe, the therapist then wrapped me in foil, together with towelling blankets on top, to ensure that no body heat escaped. I was left for about 20-30 minutes to relax and allow the papaya enzymes to infiltrate the upper dermal layers and induce smooth and shiny, radiant skin, infused with a fruity zest. This treatment forms part of the Lemuria Spa’s Creole Seychelles Exotic Dream package and aside from the dermatological benefits expressed above, it definitely helped to promote a calm demeanour upon exiting the spa and returning to my suite before another day’s adventure.
Praslin is a good base for visiting yet more islands, including the sculpted and sensual boulder beauty of La Digue, a quaint little island where life moves merrily at the pace of an ox-cart with the humble bicycle as the transport method of choice and ease. We made the day-trip across the waters on the 30-minute ferry crossing, as the tiny island has no airstrip. We collected our mounts soon after leaving the jetty, and following minor seat adjustments and testing the breaking power, we sped off on our island cycle circuit where destinations included observing a working vanilla plantation in action, creating spices and sugar cane as well as previewing the paintings of an inspired local painter, Barbara Jenson, in her studio before the very emblem of the Seychelles was presented to us for our afternoon beachside delectation: Anse Source d’Argent is arguably the most photographed beach on the Seychelles and it’s certainly the most striking beach on the archipelago, with its mammoth-sized sinuously sculpted granite stones dominating the emerald-coloured coastline, contrasting with the powder-soft sands with palms fighting for space to grow, it would not be altogether surprising had a dinosaur reared its long, protruding neck, craning its head above the highest boulders amidst the tallest palms...
Without resorting to Miltonic platitudes, paradise (with a dash of diverse adventure) has indeed been found. My Indian Ocean quest provided me with a taste of the idyll of island lore, but one boasting the greatest concentration of nature reserves in the world. The Seychelles is still very much a destination sampled by the few, but it nevertheless endeavours to cater outside the stereotypical deep-pocketed traveller – from the eco-warrior, spa maven and watersports enthusiast, notwithstanding the steady stream of honeymoon couples – but one thing binds them all together: unspoilt island beauty.
An old philosophical saying perfectly captures the essence of the Seychelles which has captivated guests since the English General, Charles Gordon, declared the islands to be the original ”Garden of Eden” back in 1881:
“Everything beautiful feels at once intensely intimate, unreachably remote, and deeply necessary – and that is how it casts its spell.”
This potent alchemy has certainly worked its magic on me, so pirates, witchcraft and trade winds allowing, I hope my return voyage comes sooner rather than later!
To book a holiday with Ultimate Retreats please log on to
www.ultimateretreats.co.uk or call 0800 056 6068. For more information from Seychelles Tourist Office call 0207 333 0146 or
www.seychelles.travel. A lead in price for 4 nights at the Banyan Tree and 3 nights at Lemuria in Seychelles with Ultimate Retreats is £2437pp in twin/double. This is based on departures between 1-17 Jul and 1-23 Sep 2008, flying with Air Seychelles. The price also Includes all transfers, inter island flights, bed & breakfast
