Bermuda’s breathtaking setting has inspired writers for centuries, from William Shakespeare, who used the island as an inspiration for “The Tempest”, to Mark Twain who once wrote, “You go to heaven if you want, I’ll stay here in Bermuda”. Breathtaking pink-sand beaches line the coastline, iridescent turquoise waters surround the island and lush tropical vegetation fills the landscape.
After an English summer of rainy disappointment I couldn’t wait for our visit.
Standing on top of one of the highest points in Bermuda with panoramic views across the island, the Fairmount Southampton was to provide our luxury accommodation for the week. Surrounded by breathtaking gardens and an 18-hole executive par-3 golf course, it has its own indoor and outdoor pool (the latter to be found on a sundeck), tennis and golf pro shops, state of the art Willow Stream Spa, several award winning restaurants and its own private secluded beach club. With five star facilities to keep you entertained however active or relaxed you want to be, it promised to be a treat.
As we left the small airport I quickly learned one thing. Bermuda’s hospitality starts in the taxi. Heading across the causeway just outside the airport, our driver, Quinton Bean, began to tell us a little about the history of the island. Dating back to discovery and exploration by privateers of the 16th century, Bermuda’s landscape is covered with the remnants of their settlement. Centuries old forts, inns, lighthouses and other ancient monuments can be seen all over the island. Full of pride about his heritage, a distinct age-old British accent and information a plenty, Quinton’s narration was absorbing and his animation pure entertainment. As we headed to the hotel, a short 30-minute journey away, the evening light quickly set in and the sky flooded with pink colours, mirrored in the sea as we passed by the shoreline. Glancing over our itinerary I was pleased to see that Quinton was to be our driver for the week and I’m sure we’d be hearing more from him.
“With five star facilities to keep you entertained however active or relaxed you want to be, it promised to be a treat.”
Pulling up at the front lobby of the hotel a line of immaculately dressed bellboys and porters stood outside waiting attentively. Wearing white jackets, blue shorts, plus fours and highly polished shoes they were reminiscent of an entourage of colonial servants. Greeting us with wide smiles they led us inside where we met a pleasant wave of cold air-conditioned air. Even in the evening Bermuda stays quite warm and it was nice to find the Hotel stayed cool throughout, day and night. Entering the main foyer the grandeur of the décor quickly impressed us, it was finished with fine wood panelling, hand crafted carvings and colourful lavish fabrics. A few moments later we were escorted up to the top floor, known as the Fairmount Gold, for our own private check-in.
The whole Fairmount Gold floor is serviced independently and boasts the hotels premier rooms, including two penthouse suites. Guests benefit from complimentary deluxe continental breakfast, afternoon tea, evening drinks and hors d’oeuvres in a luxuriously furnished lounge. Our room, like the rest of the hotel, was sumptuously furnished and had all the features to be expected of five star luxury. Looking out from our own private balcony, which each room in the hotel benefits from, was a stunning southerly vista of the beaches and the ocean beyond.
Waking early after a good night’s sleep the view from our balcony was even more magnificent as daybreak approached. Taking advantage of our jet lag we headed down to the shore for a 6.55am sunrise on Horseshoe Bay, adjacent to the Hotels’ private beach. Widely commended as one of the finest beaches in the world, it certainly was the most stunning I have ever seen. There was absolutely no debris or litter in sight, just soft pink sand. As a red glowing sun rose up from the water on the horizon, warm colour filled the sky, which reflected across the sea and in the wet sand where crashing waves advanced and retreated. The scene was breathtaking.
Returning to the hotel we enjoyed an indulgent breakfast before Quinton promptly arrived to take us on a tour of the island. As he had quickly pointed out to us after our first pick-up, Bermuda is an island steeped in history, and this time we learned a little more from his knowledgeable commentary. Visitors from the U.S. perceive Bermuda to be quaintly British; the Brits, on the other hand, tend to consider the island highly Americanised. He pointed out, however, it is of course uniquely Bermudian, a product of nearly four centuries of British colonial history and an equally long reliance on American trade. It has also had important cultural and social contributions from West Africa and Asia. He explained that this is why all its monuments have all types of fascinating links with Bermuda’s many different historical interests.
Our tour started from the famous St George’s on Bermuda’s east end, where inhabitation first began in 1609 after an English ship, the Sea Venture, wrecked on the reefs, and took us over to the historical Royal Naval Dockyard and Maritime Museum on the West End. Countless ancient sights could be seen either side of the meandering roads and waterways. One particularly caught our interest, but it had a much shorter historical lead-time. Its name was Johnny Barnes, also known as “Mr Feel Good” or “Happy Man”. For the past quarter of a century he has stood five days a week, waving and blowing kisses at drivers and pedestrians, from the Crow Lane roundabout just outside of Hamilton. Calling out “Good morning!” and “God bless you!” he has become a cultural icon, recognised by a bronze statue a short distance away. Trying not to offend Quinton we hid how highly entertained we were. Amusement aside, as we drove away I did realise how he truly embodied the friendly and passionate spirit of all the Bermudan people we had met, and also how open they are.
Returning to the hotel, the afternoon was enjoyed on the golf course with the Pro, Bruce Sims. Whilst all the holes are par-3, the play was challenging and the full 18 was in outstanding condition. Lush fairways sloped gently against the coastline and tiered greens required both skill and courage. It wasn’t difficult to see why it has been credited by Golf Digest magazine as one of the “Top 200 Best Places to Play in the World”. Striking off the tees with panoramic views of the Bermudan ocean, in glorious sunshine and a pleasant onshore breeze really did top all of my own golf experiences. Chatting to Bruce I learned that guests also have access to Championship Golf at Bermuda’s oldest private golf club, Riddell’s Bay, par 70. Not far from the hotel it winds along the peninsula, which, at its widest measures only 600 yards, and offers five ocean holes.
Our busy day finished with dinner on the beach at Mickey’s, meeting Niamah Denbrook from the Bermudan Tourist Board, who helped us look through our itinerary and make the most of the trip. A delicious seafood meal was gleefully consumed as we chatted about the Island’s must-sees. A not insubstantial amount of wine and laughter ran on late into the evening... All around us everyone seemed to be doing the same and it was clear that this was a ‘good times’ island.
The next day we headed down the hotel’s private beach for the day, planning to unwind. Like Horseshoe bay, the beach was absolutely spotless but it also had the addition of parasols and deck chairs to benefit bathers. Throughout the morning and afternoon we enjoyed table service by attentive staff and occasionally swam in the clear blue water just metres away. The weather was hot but not uncomfortable, particularly due to the constant ocean breeze. Neither the beach nor the sea seemed busy at all and we were consumed by complete relaxation. Before returning to the hotel, which is a short shuttle bus trip or a ten-minute walk away, we had a quick look around the beach club which hosts several tennis courts, shops and an ocean view terrace restaurant. Like the rest of the hotel the facilities were of a high standard.
That evening we were treated to one of the most pleasurable dining experiences each of us had ever enjoyed. The venue was the Waterlot Inn, Bermuda’s most historic restaurant, built in 1670 and situated just five minutes shuttle bus ride from the hotel. Immediately after setting foot inside, its age-old ambience was remarkable. Original cedar beams, limestone walls, low candlelight and intimate dining nooks complete with large period chairs and tables sent the feeling of whole restaurant back centuries. Greeted warmly by the front of house and led to our secluded table, we were quickly joined by a charming lady, by the name of Laura Prichard, who looked after us with first class service throughout the meal. She quickly remarked how we were in for a “treat tonight” and how right she was. Guiding us through the menu the dishes weren’t over complicated, but were excellent combinations of simple flavours and ingredients. Never have I looked at such a selection of dishes and thought that I would have enjoyed nearly every one. Given the chance I may well attempt to do just that sometime in the future. The Maitre D’, Barry Cohen, introduced himself and welcomed us to the restaurant. Leaving us in the capable hands of Laura, he returned briefly after every course to find spotless plates and happy smiles from us.
“Original cedar beams, limestone walls, low candlelight and intimate dining nooks complete with large period chairs and tables sent the feeling of whole restaurant back centuries.”
For entrees we chose the jumbo tiger shrimps served with lemon and a rich salsa sauce. The shrimp were large and succulent yet still bursting with flavour. We also chose the seared scallops in smoked pancetta served in spiced pear chutney and parsley oil, which were equally as delicious. For the main we chose the 12 ounce South African lobster tail and a ‘Surf ‘n’ Turf’ which included an 8 ounce South African Lobster Tail and 8 ounce petite filet. We were advised a steak couldn’t be missed when visiting the Waterlot Inn, apparently they are the best in Bermuda. Both meats were wonderfully tender and the lobster the sweetest we’d ever tasted and it took us little time to devour our dishes. For desert we enjoyed a sticky toffee pudding served with warm butter scotch sauce and spiced vanilla bean ice cream, which could have put to shame the world famous Cartmel pudding. We also chose the “Bermuda Hurricane Lantern Chocolate”, the Waterlot’s trio signature dessert, with chocolate sorbet, milk chocolate Grand Marnier mousse on a chocolate obsession cake and a warm molten centre cake, plated with drops of raspberry coulis which cut through the rich chocolate superbly.
After the meal I couldn’t help but express how much we had enjoyed ourselves to Barry and asked him a little more about how he runs the restaurant. He answered explaining how, “for decades, customers have used the word ‘wow’ to describe an experience, which not only exceeded their expectations, but also took those expectations to a completely new level.” Training his staff to ‘wow’ on every level and create an impact that begets success was key to everything they did, he said. I wholeheartedly congratulated him on doing exactly that. We had been wowed and I now think I know where I would choose to enjoy my final supper. Amusingly he answered “well we have been doing it for over 320 years”. Proudly boasting AAA Four Diamond and Wine Spectator awards, we’ll be pledging our own Lusso award when this is started up in the New Year.
The following day we decided to relax around the hotel and a visit to the Willow Stream Spa was of course an absolute must. The 31,000 square foot oasis includes 15 treatment rooms including a couple’s suite, a fitness centre with state of the art equipment and a panoramic view of the south shore, a hair and beauty salon, private ladies and gentleman’s lounges, a couple’s lounge, a spa pool with waterfalls, a private sun terrace with gardens and a fountain, as well as two jacuzzis. Even though we didn’t find the main pool to be too busy at any time, the spa complex was a relaxing retreat from the rest of the hotel. It also proved to be a haven of luxury with the number of treatments available, which we of course couldn’t help but to sample in.
After several days of gazing out to the deep blue waters from our balcony we couldn’t resist their enticement any longer and booked a Jet Ski tour to explore the coastline. After an initial safety brief we headed out from Waterlot Inn Dock to the offshore coral reefs at a blistering pace. Speeds in the harbour are restricted to minimise wash for moored boats and danger for wildlife, in particular turtles that are commonly found in the shallower depths, but once we had left there was no holding back. Topping nearly 40 knots my partner hung on with increasing strength behind me. I needed little encouragement but my face filled with glee as the instructor told me the faster you go the more stable the Jet Ski will be in the water. He quickly disappeared into the distance and it wasn’t long before we were in hot pursuit.
Arriving at the edge of the reef, known as the Sea Gardens because of its lush undersea life, we throttled down, caught our breath back and chatted about the next leg. Teaming shoals of fish swam all around us as we talked in water of unbelievable clarity. “Right, I’d like you to think of a race course,” he said. “I’ll lead, and set the racing line through the safe waters so simply follow my wake. Its as simple as that”. Nodding with eager anticipation, I thought to myself, this simply is too much fun. Soon we were carving s-shape high speed turns through the reef. Finding it difficult to contain my excitement, I found myself adding to the loud noise of the engine and blasting wind with boyish shouts, which were promptly replied by a cry from behind me of “If I come off you’re coming with me.” As we hit choppier waters, leaving the reef on the other side, we caught some large jumps off big waves and both erupted into hysterical laughter. What fun indeed.
““Right, I’d like you to think of a race course,” he said. “I’ll lead, and set the racing line through the safe waters so simply follow my wake. Its as simple as that”. Nodding with eager anticipation, I thought to myself, this simply is too much fun.”
Skimming across the water we headed next to Daniels Head to a shipwreck called the Vixen, sunk in the 1890s and now the home to thousands of fish. Accustomed to the tour’s regular visit, hundreds came up to greet the skis. The instructor tossed slices of bread into the water and masses rose to the surface in a swarming feeding frenzy only a few metres away which was an amazing spectacle. Next we headed off to Hamilton Harbour where we saw some of the island’s famous mansions lining the shores and some of the private secluded islands, surrounded by crystal clear water. Rumoured to cost up to $50m, the mansions really were something else. After seeing several picture perfect desert islands, which we’d be quite happy to spend the last of our days on, we headed back down the coastline for a final blast back to the dock. Still racing with adrenaline we made our way back to the hotel for a poolside cocktail, to settle down for the afternoon.
That evening we were to enjoy yet another culinary treat at the Newport Rooms, claimed to be the premier place to dine in Bermuda. Located just off the hotel lobby it is the hotel’s premier restaurant and a AAA Five Diamond award winner. The cuisine is French and each dish was presented with style and a contemporary twist. The décor of the restaurant was remarkable with wide use of brass and mahogany, creating an ambience similar to that of being on a Royal Yacht. The tables were laid with crystal and bone china, whilst impeccably trained staff provided silver service of the highest standard. The atmosphere was a lot more formal than the Waterlot Inn, which we guessed before arrival with ‘Jackets Required’ for gentlemen. Whilst we still enjoyed the dining experience immensely it is perhaps more suited to a special occasion or for business entertainment for this reason. I’m sure if we return to Bermuda we’ll find an excuse to go back as it really was something special.
On our final morning we enjoyed a champagne breakfast on our balcony with our own private butler, which can be ordered from room service. A suitable end it seemed to us, to our incredibly enjoyable visit to Bermuda.
