As addresses go, they don’t get much more prestigious than the Cadogan’s. Situated on Sloane Street, London SW1 and equidistant between Sloane Square and Knightsbridge, this hotel could not be better placed if you’re in town for some high-end retail therapy.
This reassuringly English establishment certainly has oodles of period charm to match its location. It’s been the subject of a recent major refurbishment which thankfully hasn’t seen any modernising vandalism, but has sympathetically improved what was there beforehand. Although some fans of the hotel feel that the changes have reduced the atmosphere somewhat.
The reception team and concierge are friendly and efficient, as is all the staff I encountered (even the kitchen team that I happened upon after taking the wrong lift down into the depths of the hotel)! Talking about lifts, they are the type that require the user to manually pull the safety grill shut before use. No doubt the considerable American patronage will consider this a rather quaint touch.
History is an important part of this hotel’s fabric, not just relating to the building, but also its infamous guests. It was once the home of actress and society belle Lillie Langtry and where she entertained her lover King George VII. Bizarrely she actually stayed in her old bedroom after her home had become the hotel in 1887. Later in 1895, room 118 was the scene of Oscar Wilde’s famous arrest, immortalised in the John Betjeman poem, ‘The Arrest of Oscar Wilde in the Cadogan Hotel’.
Anyway fast forwarding a hundred odd years I was looking forward to seeing my suite after gift hunting at nearby Harrods and Harvey Nics. Other neighbours include Gucci, Armani, Yamamoto, Dolce & Gabbana, etc. as well as the luxury boutiques. If you frequent shops where well dressed security staff open the door for you, you’ll love the situation of the Cadogan. Guests are also entitled to use the private Cadogan Place gardens opposite or even enjoy a game of tennis – the concierge will supply the equipment.
The hotel suite’s décor is in keeping with the feel of the place – classic with a contemporary twist is what the Cadogan calls it – a term that seems to be assigned to almost every hotel I visit these days. In this case it’s largely true and much of the charm of the Cadogan is that it’s not the homogenised hotel hell of so many of the chains. The suite is compact but comfortable, and afternoon tea watching a matinee on the flatscreen with my feet up on the coffee table wasn’t quite up to Wilde’s standards of self-indulgence, but enjoyable none-the-less. I think that this is the essence of the Cadogan – stepping in from the bustle of modern London to an Edwardian interior transporting you back to the genteel past, and providing an instant feeling of civilised calm.
The web site mentioned falling instantly to sleep in the comfortable beds and I certainly found this to be the case. On the negative side, the paint job on the room’s woodwork left a lot to be desired, in fact it really reminded me of my efforts at home. I also had a shirt to iron but was informed that their ironing board was broken. One ironing board for the whole hotel?
The hotel’s restaurant is Langtry’s and as we took our seats on the velvet Louis XV-style chairs we were told that this was once Lillie Langtry’s drawing room. It’s certainly attractive, featuring high sculptured ceilings, a magnificent Carrera marble Louis XIV fireplace, oversize mirrors and an original glass chandelier. Unfortunately it was rather empty but to be expected as it was only a Tuesday night. The mainly British menu – they call it British with an inventive twist - includes such delights as Toad in the Hole & Crackling, Pan Fried John Dory and Rhubarb and Custard. The waiting staff team were attentive and not in the least bit stuffy, and the food was all excellent. The interesting and comprehensive wine list features Oscar Wilde’s favourite, Perrier Jouet Champagne and I made a mental note to return on a Saturday lunchtime where the three-course menu includes limitless PJ Champagne.
Despite the odd niggle, this is still a fine hotel. Its strength is its location, history and atmosphere, as well as the fact that it’s not soulless and enormous. Mine was a summer visit but I can imagine that the hotel comes into its own in the winter months. I want to trudge up Sloane Street laden with bags anticipating the cosy warmth of those panelled rooms and take afternoon tea in the Drawing Room. This is England at its best.